What is a significant risk when a carabiner is loaded with the gate open?

When a carabiner is loaded with the gate open, it can result in a significant loss of strength, typically greater than 50%. This loss occurs because carabiners are designed to take loads along the spine, which is the strongest part of the carabiner. When the gate is open, the load shifts from the spine to the weaker areas of the carabiner, reducing its capacity to safely bear weight. This situation makes it extremely hazardous, as the carabiner may not only fail under unexpected loads, but it also could lead to catastrophic failure in a rescue or climbing scenario.

Ensuring that the gate is closed and locked is a fundamental safety procedure in rope rescue and climbing. This helps maintain the structural integrity of the carabiner, allowing it to function as intended under load. Recognizing the importance of this precaution can prevent potential accidents and enhance overall safety practices in rope-related activities.